Interview with Fashion designer Rachael Cassar




In April 2007, four months after graduating from the University of Technology  in Sydney,  Rachael launched her brand Rachael Cassar. She is a young and beautiful rising eco-designer. Glamour's Destruction and I had the chance to interview this fabulously inspirational designer. The interview is as follows:

How did you become interested in Fashion designing?
From a very young age I started experimenting with the way I dressed and put things together. I started taking things apart and re working them to my own personal taste. I soon developed a fascination with gathering different materials and textures and playing around in my room for hours trying to create the vision I had in my head. At the age of 15 I started attending any course I could find to do with designing. After high school I went straight to UTS to study Fashion and textile design. Graduating with a few awards, I decided to launch 
my own label the following year.




http://www.rachaelcassar.com/wp-content/gallery/six/410p9942.jpg


What’s the inspiration behind your ecological approach?

I have always been an upcycler/recycler before I even knew what those terms were! From a very young age I got such a kick out of taking things apart and re-working to my taste, bringing an old thing back to life. This extended to jewellery where I became obsessed with finding broken cheap pieces and then fixing them 
‘saving’ them in a way.

During my years of a 4-year Fashion and Textile Degree at UTS, I always knew I was different in terms of my process and how I liked to create my designs. I never felt comfortable going about the conventional way of creating fashion apparel and quite often felt uncomfortable and somewhat like a Freud. After learning about the devastating effects that the Fashion industry has had and is having on our environment, I knew I couldn’t continue with this chosen career unless I stayed true to my own way of creating and my passion for re-using/up-cycling.
In my final year I experimented and created a High- end range made from 90% recycled materials. I got a great response all round which confirmed to myself and to the people who thought I couldn’t pull it off that I had the ability to make a range that didn’t sacrifice anything that I myself love about fashion aesthetics for a sustainable product. Luxury should not be sacrificed for sustainability. Aesthetics should not be sacrificed for sustainability. Design should not be sacrificed for sustaibibility. Detail should not be sacrificed for sustainability. It is all about problem solving and creating an equally appealing product.

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Who is your favourite designer?
Hands down Alexander McQueen. He was a true visionary. The Fashion world has lost a true creative.


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How do you feel about celebrities getting all the high-end free goodies when they are the people who can afford the goodies?

It is unfortunate that this is how the fashion industry work. For example I have my previous collections in a showroom in LA, they have been there for a year now. Celebrities have worn my pieces, stylists have borrowed them for shoots but poor old designer back here has not made any money, its all for PR. Especially with pieces like mine, and for an emerging designer- celebrity status can really help make people start to pay attention to your work. So for me, i'm just waiting for a piece to be worn on the red carpet which will probably bring about more work.


http://www.howbigisyoureco.com.au/site/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/Rachael-Cassar-3.jpg

Do you come up with concepts for designs first or is it more of an unplanned thing? How do you bring your inspiration to reality? 

Yes I come up with a theme/concept first, then I source/gather materials inspired by this idea.
The fun part begins where I start designing straight on the stand (mannequin) I do not hand draw my designs. Its more about playing with the fabrics, sculpting it to produce shapes and details that are all in my head. Its all 
about the materials.

What do you hope to have achieved in the industry, 10 years from now?

I hope to be able to do this for a living for the rest of my life.I hope that Australia embraces new designers. We tend to have a handful of designers that dominate the industry, this needs to change! There needs to be more out there for new upcoming designers that don't have enough money to exhibit their brands at fashion weeks- we all need opportunities. I hope to have someone who believes in my work, my ethic and my creativity to financially help me open a concept store- the first high end eco fashion boutique in Australia. This 
is my dream, but one I can't really envisage happening in the near future.




http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_GJNTu3sWv38/Sq6TFRd5XdI/AAAAAAAAAU8/_7E3b7vSpmQ/s400/Rachael_Cassar_Ruby2.jpg


What do you have to say to the next generation, particularly for those hoping to follow in your footsteps?
I would say, Do not get into this field if you are  not passionate, not doing something different and not willing to work for nothing!!! This industry needs people who are dedicated at producing exciting, new eco fashion. Not the fashions of the past. The fashion industry is not built to accept designers like me. It goes against the foundations of how this industry works. I do not create mass volumes of fashion, I only create one offs which goes against mass consumption which means less profit for anyone involved. I want eco fashion to be valued just as the conventional fashion industry is, by the industry and public! 

http://www.rachaelcassar.com/


Once again, I'd like to thank Rachael Cassar for taking the time in writing in response to our email. If you would like to know more about Rachael, please visit her website http://www.rachaelcassar.com/

Eco-Conscious followed by a pressure test.





Newspaper dress by Gary Harvey


Being eco-conscious or not, designers are picking up on the eco-trend. The whole point is taking a risk and taking things to a higher level. For the purpose of this subject was to chose a designer who would be our inspiration. We chose; Gary Harvey.


"I do not have a person in mind, I have an attitude or feeling: rebellious, fuck you and sexy."


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Packet food dress by Gary Harvey.





His collection is to show that something strangely elegant can be created from unwanted things. His creations are modern haute couture, with an ecological approach. It all began in his early life as a student who was having economic difficulties in obtaining new fabric.
















We were asked to get into a group and create something upcycle within 2 hours, just so we could have a feel of what it's like in the real world. The hardest part was being in a group with 2 other people working together as a team with 3 different ideas and different senses in fashion. But, we done well.

Here is our result of  7 white garbage bags, 10 black garbage bags and god knows how many chewing gum wrappers.




We displayed in in the campus library along side all the other creations in our class.




Free Wheeling: Fad, trend or classic?



FAD: Fashion that is taken up with passion for a short period of time, in other words, a craze, because it is intense but short lived.
TREND: A particular direction in which fashion moves as it is a popular and shared taste at a given time.
CLASSIC: A style that you must have. Not because you have seen it over a hundred times on the street, but because you can picture yourself wearing it for years to come.

A current fad is, JEGGINGS.
Jeggings refers to leggings which look like denim. This is a Bubble up effect from Japan street fashion which only last 1 year. I think it is important to note here that I do not hate the product itself. Quite the opposite. I, personally just hate the name 'Jeggings'...  With a passion. Are we really so lazy that we can't just say 'denim look leggings'? Anyway, back to topic. These are *cringes* jeggings:




A current trend is, NERD GLASSES
As they have been termed, this trend has been growing since around 2008. This is when the glasses started taking the new vintage, nerdy look. This bubbled up from the 1950’s school wear when they were originally made from; horn, tortoise shell and plastic.



A classic fashion is, THE LITTLE BLACK DRESS
Yes, I said it! We all have at least one of these little members in our draws that we can call out favourite. It is essential to those days that we have when we say we "have nothing to wear".  It is trickled down from the 1926 Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel's calf-length, straight, and decorated only by a few diagonal lines, little black dress which was simple and accessible for women of all social classes. Oh, how times have changed....

What's IN and what's OUT for Autumn/Winter 2011

Fashion is a basic self expression created for the only living creatures that wear clothing (besides those who dress up their pet's of course). Dress styles and senses play an important role in every persons life, it determines WHO they are and sadly, which social class they may belong to. While autumn has officially started in Perth, the heat is still here. So, here is a list of what's in and what's out;

What’s IN 


Wide leg pants and flares
                                          

Gloves 


Heels and Socks


Tailored pants 


Lace and Leather


Military


Shearling

Nudes and Dark Tones


Peep Toe Shoes

Knitwear and Cinched Waist

                              
                    
What’s OUT

Shoulder pads
Boobs
Bling
Jeggings
Flouro 
Over accessorising 
Baggy Pants
Distressed Denim
Mini Skirts
Pointy Toe Shoes

I hope I did not offend anyone with this post, an offence was purely unintentional. Your style is your choice.

The history of Fashion Illustration.



So, the title may confuse you, rest assured giving you insight will commence... NOW! In class we had to research an unfamiliar to my knowledge term known as "fashion plates".




                                                       http://culturalinspiration.wordpress.com/

In the midst of boredom whislt staying in on a weekend, I watched 'Bright Star', the 2009 film directed by Jane Campion. Bright Star tells the story of the sadly brief (1818-1821) relationship between poet John Keats and Fanny Brawne in Hampstead, London. If you didn't already know, Miss Brawne was quite a fashion plate. This fun fact was nicely portrayed in the film through not only the costumes for the film but also by scenes showing Miss Brawne quietly working away at stitching, knitting, and embroidery.

1821, when Keats died, and 1933
her book contains few entries.
Her interest in fashion seemed
to return after she married Louis
Lindon.




So, these words rises to the occasion again 'Fashion' and 

                                                                     'Costume plates'...


Historical records and fantasy would be the easiest way to narrow down the difference between a costume plate and a fashion plate.





Costume plates are about past fashions, they show fashion how they were worn in the past.
Fashion plates are about ideas in the current or future perspective, they are ideas of the possible and in actual reality, may never be worn.







Fashion plates reached their peaks in the C19th when they were hand coloured engravings. The early costume plates are often black and white and were mostly of men, not women.



If you're a history geek that is fond of fashion or art, I suggest looking into these two names;
Albrecht Dürer: A C14th German engraver who made the first fashion plate when he made a record of clothing styles.
Wenceslaus Hollar: A C16th Polish engraver who produced 26 costume plates portraying daywear.
These two men produced the first fashion plates.



Anyway, the longest running Fashion magazine in England was a magazine called 'The Queen Magazine' which began in 1861. In 1968, 107 years later, the name was changed when 'Harpers Bazaar' bought out the magazine. It was then known as 'Harpes and Queen'. But then in 2006 the company decided to rename it to a more simple 'Harpers Bazaar' which is a name all us Fashion obsessed people know.